44 Newquay to Perranporth
A cliff walk in strong winds, waves pounding the rocks and sands, with a strange and ancient building, St Piran's Oratory, sheltered in the dunes that once buried it.
The route, day 44
Through Newquay to the estuary of the river Gannel, along the sand of the river bed at ebb tide, the coast path to Perranporth. 12.5 miles/19.5 km, 687 metres ascent.
Gannel Estuary and Crantock Bay
The Southwest Coast Path runs along the south bank of the Gannel.
On the right, the ferry and tidal footbridge below the Fern Pit Café, the river flowing around the steep north bank and into Crantock Bay.
Crantock Bay, the tide turning.
Crantock Bay, a windy day.
Crantock Bay, looking back from Pentire Point West.
With the tide out, the bed of the river Gannel was an expanse of sand, empty of life at 7 a.m.
Holywell Bay
At the bottom of the cliffs, somewhere below the two wind-battered walkers (they were here because Holywell Bay was a filming location for House of the Dragon, the prequel to Game of Thrones), is St Cuthbert's Cave with a holy well inside it, accessible only at low tide. I came too late.
Penhale Point
The coast here is used for military purposes. The encampment has a half-abandoned and depressing look, but stunning views are only a few paces away.
Perran Sands
St Piran's Oratory
Perranporth
St Piran's flag, a white cross on black, flies from the rock at Perranporth. When he sailed here from Ireland on a millstone, perhaps the sea was calmer than in the photo below.
Penhale Point. John Sykes was here, 10 September 2024